17th November 2018 – into Ushuaia

A new day and a new beginning.  That was my attitude even if my body was not quite ready for it.

New Front cover


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Woke around 5.30 and realised the extensive rock and roll had stopped so assumed that we had started into the Beagle Channel. We had left the mountainous seas of the Drake Passage.  Could see mountains in the distance.IMG_4277.JPG

IMG_4278.JPGFeel very weak after a day without meals but better rested and believe that all the poisonous chemicals I have been taking are having some effect.  Went down to breakfast. Neil joined me, and we did a debrief on what we thought of this trip as it comes to an end.  While having breakfast not only could I see solid Argentinian land on my right (with lots of snow-capped mountains), but I had Argentinian islands up close on the left.  Back in the cabin I could see green trees and I am very happy. Its 9.15am and we have a ship group disembarkation chat in a short while. We can get off into Ushuaia this arvo and then return to sleep on the ship.  I am so weak not sure what I will do.  May try to sleep all morning to prepare myself.

At the disembarkation presentation so many people came up to me to check how I was; including people I didn’t know that they knew I had a bad cold.  When ill, this is really lovely because generally I was feeling so down and it was warming to think others had noticed.  Last night I was raging to myself that I had been foolish to book onwards to Spain and then Japan.  How could I have been so thoughtless.  What on earth made me think I wanted to not be at home and travel again.  Then I lay thinking about the consequences of cancelling forward bookings, returning home early and not continuing. But if my head wasn’t already done in by sleep deprivation and a bad cold, that really was too much.  It seemed easier to continue.  Despite being weak this morning it has already been suggested to me that when I get off at Ushuaia this afternoon (and hug a tree) I may get all my can-do energy back.  Oh – now a phone call has come through from reception; Miss strong French accent tells me there is someone who would like to talk to me.  Sure, I said. Its Peter here. I have some Fisherman’s Friend lozenges if you would like.  That’s really kind. Yes please.  And up he brings a packet of peppermint flavoured soothe-the-throat fresh mints.

Its almost 11.30am and there are now buildings lining the occasional shoreline stretch of what otherwise looks like impenetrable forest.  I wonder if they travel to and from Ushuaia by boat – no sign of roads. A medium sized yacht sailed past a while back.

Onshore looks like cold temperate forest sometimes on rocky hills and then a more Alpine vegetation on the slopes of nearby partially snow-covered mountains.IMG_4287.JPG

IMG_4288.JPGI believe the maximum temperature will be 9 degrees today but, with wind-chill, I imagine dressing for 5 degrees might be the smart option.  Yes.  I am feeling excited that I can get off soon, and that it will be possible to stay off in less than 24 hours. Hallelujah.  I was never sea sick even amidst very rough seas. I was mostly happy with the onshore options. I had low expectations of getting decent vegan food and they were met.

And then I could see Ushuaia edged by high peaks with their snow stripes.IMG_4290.JPG

IMG_4293.JPGWe arrived into port at Ushuaia smoothly with little breeze and around 2-2.30pm we were free to leave the ship.IMG_4297.JPGWe poured off the ship without passports armed only with our room/cabin card.  There were no immigration or customs procedures and we loved the process and wished the rest of the world was so relaxed.  Or perhaps common sense prevails:  who in their right mind would be drug or arms running from Montevideo to Ushuaia via Antarctica!  That’s right. No-one.

I eschewed the plans of others to take a mini tourist train in the Tierra Del Fuego national park. Instead off on my own I had a pleasant afternoon wandering the streets but with most time spent at a colossal museum housed in the old prison (which was built to house convicts in the 1890s).  One gaol cell display space was devoted to historic gaols in Australia – couldn’t work out why.  Maybe Port Arthur for the convict link but the others???IMG_4314.JPG

IMG_4319.JPGThe method for shackling prisoners was something I had not previously seen.IMG_4328.JPGSome of the museum had been repaired or cleaned up but other parts were in original disintegrating condition. Very illuminating.IMG_4347.JPG

IMG_4349.JPGWithin the very large museum complex was an art gallery holding large penguin sculptures.  These were creative and fun to look for.  Examples include:IMG_4333.JPG


IMG_4329.JPGIMG_4336.JPGMy great ‘take away’ from the museum was that Ushuaia is at the bottom of an island which is at the bottom of Argentina.IMG_4323.JPG






IMG_4327.JPGIt wasn’t cold outside around town although cool.  We are located at 54 degrees south compared to Tasmania’s 42 degrees south so that needs to be taken in to account. I wore only a t-shirt and my normal non-Antarctic jacket and was comfortable.

After I left the museum I wandered along the streets of Ushuaia and heard most languages except Spanish; this is a serious tourist town with people waiting for cruise ships to take them south.

Walls decorated with mural art added life to the urban environment.IMG_4301.JPGSome museums were shut.  No surprises there.IMG_4304.JPG

IMG_4302.JPGSnowy mountains punctuated the landscape in the distance whereever I looked.  Marvellous crisp profiles.IMG_4305.JPG



IMG_4355.JPGThe architecture is a mix. I liked the look of the older corrugated iron buildings with their coloured walls.IMG_4354.JPG

IMG_4357.JPGMostly I think of Ushuaia as the dandelion capital. Spring had sprung these golden flowers in every nook and cranny. Luxuriating.IMG_4310.JPGAs I walked into the centre of town, children were everywhere. I first noticed some playing chess.IMG_4363.JPGThen I saw different stalls lining the street edges all devoted to some game or learning for children to get involved with. At  another corner, loud pop music filled a vacant block;  food was offered for dancing children. The colourful church attracted my attention.IMG_4366.JPG

IMG_4369.JPGInside a service was being held with children attached to parents. Obviously the focus was children that day.  Apart from the bright happy colours, the highlight in this building was a superb stained glass window near the entrance.IMG_4371.JPG

IMG_4372.JPGThen I plodded along the wharf.  It wasn’t the city that interested me, only the mountains.IMG_4375.JPG



IMG_4383.JPGBack to the ship for the last time.IMG_4381.JPG

IMG_4379.JPGI have coughed my way around Ushuaia and now I am very tired. As much I would like to kick on tonight with everyone for the last night together, I may eat dinner and then disappear.  But then – I can’t be trusted to make a decision and stick to it. Tomorrow morning, we must be out of our cabins permanently by 8am so I want to get some catch up sleep before then.


4 thoughts on “17th November 2018 – into Ushuaia

    • They were such clever creations so appropriate for the location – they would have been about the correct height for Emperor Penguins – which we never saw because it was their time to be at sea. There were dozens more in lots of nooks and crannies but I didnt photograph them all, and I didnt include in the blog post all that I photographed. Marvellously uplifting – and unexpected.


  1. Just a few quick lines Helen to let you know that your blog has provided me with much info and enjoyment each day. Have always admired your strength of character and even more so now.

    I do realise the homework/researching such a trip involved and am sorry your health created problems, all more than just a mere cold.

    Loved the penquin statues in the Ushuaia Museum,,

    Am sure your soaking in the comfort of your own house and also the sun

    Love Pauline


    • Hi Pauline Lovely to hear from you and glad you are enjoying reading my blog still. Yes those penguin statues were an extraordinary find. They were about real Emperor Penguin height so were quite substantial. And – yes – we have been having lovely warm days interspersed with hot ones. All very pleasant. How is the cool winter affecting you? Stay warm and comfortable – at least you wont ever be as cold as someone might be on Antarctica without the right clothes.


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